Davenport Gap to Erwin

A series of firsts

Day 28

Davenport Gap marks the northern boundary of Great Smoky Mountains National Park. At this point, like many hikers I was thinking "good riddance"about the section. The Smokies are discussed as a significant milestone for the AT because it's known for bad weather and is a long stretch of decent terrain with few road crossings. If you've made it that far, your chances of completion are good.

In the morning, I made a quick stop at Standing Bear hostel, long enough to charge my phone, buy some snacks, and cook a frozen pizza. It was quite a feat of willpower to leave there back into the rain.

Today was the first day I shouted into the void out of frustration. Subsequent days of rain are worse because you start with cold, damp clothing and know that it won't get better. The conditions were worse because in addition to 40 degree Fahrenheit rain, it was windy. Rain gear isn't designed to keep you warm, and warm gear isn't rain proof. You can't wear your jacket to hike if it's more valuable as a dry layer once you're at camp.

I was coming over a treeless summit into gusting winds. My whole self was cold, and my hands felt wooden they were so numb. So yes, I shouted my frustrations into the void, and I knew my only option was to keep moving. I also did my first feet-slide-from-under-you fall into the mud.

Eventually, the rain cleared up by the time I made dinner, though it was a chilly night in the 30s plus damp.

Day 29

I climbed Max Patch today which is a well known bald with 360 degree views. It was sunny and windy, which is actually great for drying gear out. At lunch, everyone has their tents spread out.

Blue skies and happy Easter

There was even trail magic here! This is a popular day hike spot, and a couple who had previously section hiked about 1000 miles of trail were handing out snacks.

These caterpillars were crawling all over the gear I was airing out

After a bit, my clothes dried and my mood improved. I was even appreciating the green of spring as this became my new longest, climbest* day. At 18 miles, 50% longer than my previous highest elevation gain day, it doesn't even take that many hills to break the record.

Plus the last few miles were all downhill

Stealth camped at a pleasant spot on the several miles downhill into Hot Springs, NC. Town day tomorrow!

*Yes, I am making this word up to serve my own purposes.

Day 30

Oh, how quickly things change.

Unexpected mini graveyard along trail. Sometimes, it's obvious that current forest once contained roads, buildings, or farms.

I was having a great time, making quick work of the few miles into Hot Springs and enjoying the novelty of the first town where the AT passes directly through downtown. The plan was a quick stop, shower, laundry, food to eat and resupply, and go. A nice random lady even bought my lunch at the diner. She had supported her daughter's hike last year and was pleasant to chat with.

Then, I fell ill and my lunch was no more. Another trail first, though almost guaranteed at some point.

It's nearly impossible to know what caused a stomach bug on trail. Was it the third time I dropped my spoon in the dirt? Fifth time I didn't use enough hand sanitizer, or a pathogen that isn't neutralized by that? Everything in my pack is sitting in the dirt at some point, so even after washing hands (I do carry soap, which some call a luxury item), the first thing you touch isn't clean. I knew my water filter was leaking dirty water (and even had the spare rubber O ring since this is a common problem), but I didn't fix that, either.

All things considered, I was super fortunate to already be at a hostel. At least I had just downloaded the newest book by my favorite author and had a bed, electricity, plumbing, and internet while I waited out my symptoms.

Day 31

Took a nero day at the hostel again. Once I could handle eating, I got a loaf of bread for a peanut butter and Nutella sandwich and then slackpacked a few miles. That was rough going, but emotionally I enjoyed moving again.

River views of the French Broad

Day 32

Somewhat unintentionally, I ended up hiking 14 miles today. I wasn't pushing, necessarily, and I took more sitting breaks than before. But I kept going as long as I felt like it, and come dinner time I had hiked into a convenient shelter site.

Craving vegetables is a valid trail phenomenon, so I packed out a gallon bag of salad complete with dressing. And I ate it with my spoon.

Bird song is more noticeable now, though there's still plenty of hiking through quiet woods. 

Day 33

Today I hiked through a cool exposed rocky ridgeline section called Big Firescald Knob. It was a beautiful day for a little rock scramble. My favorite was a spot called Blackstaff Cliff, where you duck through the rhododendrons until suddenly you're at a rocky drop off.

Blackstaff Cliff views

Trying to take a nice photo while squinting directly at the sun

Just after the ridge section was the 300 mile marker

Today I saw my first woods bear. There were only four of us at the campsite, and I was the last one awake at 8 pm. I heard a big rustling and look up to see a black bear over 100 yards away.  Now I'm on alert, maybe I'll have to start shouting and scare it off. It stands still for a minute or two then takes off running up a hill away from camp. Not a minute later, a pair of hikers come around the corner where the bear first stopped. When they passed through camp, I let them know of a bear in the area. The I read my book for a bit and went to sleep, with peaceful dreams!

Day 34

Big Bald is said to have amazing views, but I wouldn't know. There was intermittent rain today, even a 20 minute burst complete with thunder, lightning, and hail. Most of the day was just overcast, but by the time I got to this bald it was windy, raining (albeit lightly) and socked in with no views.

State border sign in the distance as the trail crosses under I-26 at Sam's Gap

I met a previous thru hiker named Beetle doing trail magic at the road crossing just before this sign. My favorite takeaway was the word "freedom step" to describe the first step directly through puddles once you're committed to completely wet shoes. It's a lot easier to go through than around wet trail.

Day 35

Snail time!

I ran into a lot of day hikers this morning as I descended Big (and Little) Bald. Approaching from the north looked like a much easier, smoother climb.

According to a local, this is called bear corn.

More than once I've heard owls hooting in the middle of the day, so today I finally responded with, "it's past your bedtime!"

I camped at a spot on the ridgeline going into Erwin. That makes for an easy morning downhill, as towns tend to be along rivers down in valleys, but it meant I could hear interstate traffic noise. At least I had good cell service and planned out my resupply and town food options. The goal is a few hours, quick in and out since I'll be arriving in the morning. Not all town stops  include overnight stays, for both budget and time reasons. I appreciate the rhythm I develop after 3 or 4 consecutive hiking days, too.

Happy hiking!