Great Smoky Mountains, part 1

Day 20

I zeroed at the Fontana Shelter waiting for Ryan to arrive in the afternoon. Got some trail magic from previous thru hikers Sunnyside and Mother Hen. It ended up working out well because we stayed another night here during a big storm: 50+ mph gusts, lightning and thunder close enough to rattle you, etc. There was a light misty breeze through the shelter, but all in all it was an excellent place to weather a storm.

So today I will write about my cook system.

3 parts: stove, pot stand, and wind screen

I use an alcohol stove made out of a soda can. There are many video instructions and variations, but this was made with one can, a pocket knife, and a pushpin. There are three pieces: top of can (which has the "jets"), inner wall, and bottom of can. Fuel flows from the center chamber through small cuts into the inner wall space where it is heated into vapor. That vapor is what burns through the jet holes you see in the above photo, plus a large center flame as well. After lighting, it takes a bit to warm up before the flame "blooms" through the small jets, too.

Next is the square pot stand. Some models of alcohol stove are designed to rest the pot directly on top while others are most efficient with an air gap. Outside of that I have a wind screen made from a foil baking pan. Alcohol stoves as a whole are very susceptible to wind and can lose fuel efficiency quickly.

As an engineer and a crafter, a DIY stove was right up my alley (and basically free). There are infinite variations, and even following the same instructions can lead to some stoves that work better than others. For those who are less mechanically inclined, alcohol stoves can be purchased that are either more featured versions of the soda can, or are manufactured out of other materials. Perhaps I was drawn to this style because Dartmouth Trips, my first backpacking experience, used Trangia spirit burners (as they are called in Europe where it's more popular than in the US). Trangia are made from brass and are practically indestructible, and they also can burn white gas. Alcohol stoves generally have no moving parts to break and no maintenance needed.

The fuel is called denatured alcohol, often found next to paint thinner in a hardware store. Heet in the yellow bottle is methyl alcohol and can be found at most any gas station; you'll see a little yellow spout peeking out of my backpack pocket in many photos. 90% rubbing alcohol or even high proof grain alcohol can be used in a pinch. The fuel can be stored in any old plastic bottle, which allows you to take exactly as much as you need on a short trip and makes it easy to see exactly how much fuel remains. It's easy to find and cheap.

Alcohol stoves have their share of drawbacks. My version has no temperature control, no spill protection, and no way to turn it off. If I added too much fuel, I just let it burn out. Some versions have sealing lids to snuff the flame, provide some "simmer control" and store that extra fuel for later. They are banned in some fire prone areas due to lack of flame control. Lighting it can be tricky, and in addition to fuel efficiency, winds can produce extra large, uncontrolled flames. There's some gas canister systems that are lighter than alcohol stoves, depending on pot stand and accessories, and some that are not. Weight of the fuel itself is a toss up depending on the length of the trip.

Day 21

Into the Smokies! Ryan and I hiked 12 miles and my biggest elevation gain yet to get to the next shelter ahead of more storms and high winds.

The detour signs around construction on Fontana Dam

Ryan and I set out. Overcast, but no daytime rain luckily.

Out of Fontana Dam, we climbed and kept climbing. It wasn't as steep as some mountains in terms of steps and scrambles. But 4000+ ft is not easy no matter how you do it. I can't seem to attach videos here (see my Instagram), but we also climbed a sketchy fire tower and nearly got blown over in the process. Or at least it felt like it.

Our first big overlook, but not the windy one

Within park limits, everyone is required to camp at designated sites and shelters. As a Leave No Trace principle, concentrating impacts sacrifices a small area to protect the larger surrounding forest. The shelters in the Smokies are made of stone and have fireplaces and chimneys, which is unique along the AT.

A welcome sight after a long day

Day 22

Ryan and I hiked a few miles together before parting ways midday. Put in some more miles by myself and had nice views.

And I had great cell service here. Always updating the weather forecast, plus maybe texting my parents.

There are currently almost no green things in the forest, which made the sudden appearance of wildflowers all the more exciting. I bet within a month, there will be full tree cover on the trail, but for now I am very much hiding from the sun as a pale redhead. Even at Fontana Dam at lower elevation (1700 vs ~5000), buds were forming on trees, and the understory plants were starting to appear.

Day 23

There was some rain, a bit of ice and sleet, and a lot of wind as I climbed up and up to Clingmans's Dome, the highest point on the AT. I definitely questioned the wisdom of climbing a high ridge line with high winds, but at least it wasn't bad enough to close the roads into the park as happened earlier in the week. The forest changed character near the top, too, as the evergreens dominated and the understory became a mossy jumbled mess.

Clingman's Dome has a paved access ramp, and this is looking to the south over terrain I have already covered.

Again, see my Instagram for windy videos. Today, I actually felt that the ridgeline hiking was easier and the summit less steep than others. People said that the Smokies is decent cruising once you've climbed up, but it didn't feel so easy the last few days.

I met up with my parents today. Turns out I have a lot to say about the Smokies, so I will end this post here and create a part 2.

I haven't even showered yet, my mom must love me a lot to sit so close.

Happy hiking!