Winding Stair Gap to Fontana Dam

Day 13

Town day! Lucked into 2 trail magic setups in the 4 miles hiked today. We're celebrating Peroni's 25th birthday in Franklin. It was great to hang out in town on a beautiful evening and eat food! I had a very satisfying burrito and Oreo milkshake.

Waiting for a ride into town

At the Lazy Hiker brewery

I picked up my new/old hiking shoes from the post office. Many hikers will tell you to size up your shoes so that you don't jam your toes going downhill, plus your feet may swell after hiking constantly. However, I had a terrible time with blisters since my feet simply moved too much within my shoes. I tried many tricks but eventually asked my darling parents to mail me my original, pre worn trail runners. I've also joined the camp shoe crowd, again no matter how much you like your hiking shoes, it's good to have a break from them. No ultralight setup here, all I seem to do is add more weight to my gear and food.

Day 14

The First Baptist Church in Franklin does an all you can eat hiker breakfast every day during the peak hiker season. Unlimited pancakes (and bacon for others), plus fresh fruit, cocoa and coffee, and several homemade jams as toppings. The church shuttled from the hostel I stayed at (thanks, Onward Hostel), then a quick town stop before hitting the trail. Casual 7 miles before my first stay at an unofficial stealth camping site. New shoes are doing great!

Sometimes the water sources are pretty, too. Spring is generally the easiest time of year to find flowing water.

Sadly, I lost a fight with a tree today. While hanging my food, the branch snapped and caught me across the cheek. I was more sad that I had to search for a new branch in the dark.

Day 15

With a bit of surprise rain and a good book, I was extra slow leaving camp this morning.

Great views and sunshine today

Warm weather did bring in the first cloud of gnats so far this hike, but (knock on wood) at least I haven't seen mosquitoes yet.

From this tower, it's possible to see Cling man's Dome and the Smoky Mountains. Despite climbing up and down hills all day, it's still strange to see, "I've hiked from over there, and I'll go next over there." It always looks big and tall and far away.

Looking pensive

Day 16

Not a close call at all, but a very large tree fell in camp last night after yet another night with rain and high winds. My tent was the closest at 20 yards, though I've heard secondhand stories of much more harrowing blow downs. I definitely remember, aftet waking up from a dead sleep, the creaking and crashing sound, but I don't remember feeling the ground shake.

To a hiker, any fallen log could be considered a blow down, but what it really implies is an inconvenient tree with spindly branches that you have to weave in and around.

Chest- and stomach-high trees are the most inconvenient height. It's a little tough to crawl under with a pack, and it's too tall to climb over unless there's nearby props.

What this photo doesn't capture is the steep drop off to the left, so you can't go around it easily.

On the way down from another fire tower with views, there were MANY blow downs. I met some local trail ambassadors that were marking locations where future chain saw work was needed.

Earned those views with a lot of trudging

The day ended with a long descent into the Nantahala Outdoor Center. They are known for whitewater rafting and kayaking, but since the trail crosses through the complex, thru hikers often stay in their bunkhouses, too. While for many this isn't a new accomplishment, today I ate my first ever pint of ice cream in one sitting: peanut butter cup. 600+ calories of dairy fat and 2 hours later, I ate more dinner. Plus there was someone doing trail magic while hiking a section with his brother - yay free snacks.

Day 17

One of my best lunch decisions yet was packing out leftover Mexican-spiced beans to add to my tortilla. With the last of the fresh spinach from Franklin (day 3 strapped to my pack and doing fine) and some cheddar cheese, it was a mighty fine burrito overlooking a nice mountain background. Of course, hunger is a great spice, too.

Actually, all of these are starting to look the same.

I made it to the shelter early enough to beat the brief rain and hail, and I met back up with my friend group who packed out s'mores ingredients!

Day 18

Today we encountered trail magic at a very perfect time. At this point in my hike, I normally don't get joint pain going downhill for long periods of time. Stecoah Gap, the largest mountain pass we crossed today, was just not feeling great. Two trail angels were at the parking lot with snacks, fruit, and a cooler of drinks. I snagged the last donut, and they even rigged up a hand washing station (trust me, this is noteworthy). This makes magic # 12. Of course, backpacking is about being self- sufficient, but embrace the unique social side of the bustling Appalachian Trail and let the trail provide.

Firefly, Cookie, and Radish at Chenoah Bald #nofilter

It's a bit strange at first to take handfuls of snacks from strangers, and of course I am always thankful, but people who are familiar with thru hikers beg you to keep eating and want to see all of their work appreciated. So yes, take that extra granola bar to go and take half a roll of toilet paper in a sandwich baggie. And swap stories, sign log books, and enjoy human generosity and the hiking community.

Yet another campfire and company

Nature 1 Humans 0

Day 19

The Great Smoky Mountains are coming up. We stayed at the Fontana Dam shelter last night, which is a generous double deck site that holds 20. What's more exciting is that there is a solar powered charging station, piped water, trash cans, and a bath house with flush toilets AND showers. Did I shower and then put stinky clothes back on? Yes, and I also did "laundry" in the sink, but the shower was so worthwhile.

Thru hikers call this the Fontana Hilton

Water.

Tomorrow we actually enter the park, and I'm meeting up with a friend from home to hike for a few days. There's also some storms and high wind coming through, oh well. 60 mph wind gusts do have me heading for the shelter and not setting up my tent.

Modern amenities 

Happy hiking!