Front Royal to Pennsylvania

Harpers Ferry has no apostrophe

The blogging app and I still have beef over this "no internet, panic panic, let's delete your draft post" business. Again.

Day 78

After completing my errands and eating more town meals, Zoe and the puppy Ollie joined me briefly on trail.

Dog backpack beats hiking backpack hands down

I only hiked a few miles so I could stay at the next shelter, which was a pretty nice one at that. Given the chance, I will stay in shelters to avoid having wet gear. Not that I've had any major issues with leaks or waterproofing so far, but I choose to avoid carrying that water weight and the effort the dry everything out again.

I don't think I've talked about shelters in too much detail. These three-sided structures can vary in size, material, and shape along the AT depending on the age and ownership as much as any site constraints. Forest service shelters are pretty standardized, and within Shenandoah and the Smokies there were distinct styles. The base model, if you will, can hold 6 people, and it's almost but not quite guaranteed to have a fire circle, privy, and water source nearby. Bonus features include food storage like bear boxes, an extended roof covering a picnic table, and extra inside space like a second floor or lofted bunks.

Denton shelter had next-level features: large covered cooking area at right, front deck space with additional seating, and horseshoe pit (not pictured). And more, keep reading...

The Appalachian Trail is prone to crowding, at least by wilderness standards, so if you value solitude then shelters aren't for you. I've settled on tent camping at the shelter so I can socialize and have amenities while also having my own space that's enclosed against bugs. Remember that concentrated camping areas are part of Leave No Trace so that damage to the environment is localized.

My first solar shower!

But perhaps the top bonus feature of this site was a solar shower. At the end of a warm muggy day, it was nice to wash off the dirt and salt, even if the water temperature was not very warm.

Day 79

I enjoyed the flat terrain in this stretch of northern Virginia. For a weekday, there were a lot of day hikers in the state park section, which I thought was pretty uneventful for a forest.

A very informative sign post

I met a couple, right at this signed intersection, that was nearly done with their Virginia section hike, and they gave me an apple.

Day 80

Today had several big milestones. First, the Rollercoaster is a famous section of trail named for its constant ups and downs. Compared to the mountains I've hiked so far, these climbs aren't that tall at only a few hundred feet of elevation change at a time. It's rocky and steep, sure, and it's perhaps more noticeable because the miles on either side of it are much flatter and easier.

More annoying than the rocks was the lack of water sources

Then, I crossed the 1000 mile mark.

1000 miles, and then (over) 1000 more

I stayed at a cabin owned by the Potomac Appalachian Trail Club, who maintains part of the trail including through Shenandoah. At this property, there was another solar shower, potable water on tap, a lovely screened porch complete with a swing, and outlets to recharge devices.

Psych, the scenic overlook is NOT a river, it's a highway

Day 81

A short day today because I'm meeting my brother in Harpers Ferry tomorrow. I got to camp with plenty of time to start a new book, The Three Body Problem by Cixin Liu. I ended up having weird sci-fi alien dreams, though.

I had enough time to pop over to a gas station and buy potato chips and ice cream for lunch. Sometimes thru hikers eat like 8 year olds dream. I did need a new water bottle at least.

Another state finished

For those who like to test their limits and hurt their feet, there is the four state challenge. Within 24 hours, hike across four states: Virginia, West Virginia, Maryland, and into Pennsylvania. No one shared camp with me at the border sign that was attempting that challenge today. 

Day 82 and 83

Actually saw the Shenandoah River for the first time

I met my brother in the town of Harpers Ferry today, which isn't that far from the greater DC area. At some time, this was the halfway point of the trail, and it has an Appalachian Trail Conservancy building where thru hikers get a photo taken. They have binders of hiker photos going back decades. The actual halfway point moves and is a random spot in the woods, so this town is described as the emotional halfway point.

Preserved for posterity forever

I got new shoes sent here, too - quite a big day for a hiker. Drew and I ate food and wandered around town for a bit. The whole downtown section is a historic district, so there are exhibits spread around many buildings.

Can you tell the difference in tread depth?

The next day I took a zero with Drew and did a good bit of simply sitting around. It was odd to go into Starbucks for my iced chai dressed like a normal person. I did luck into finding instant sweet potatoes after searching every store along trail for weeks!

I'm squatting on a stone block to equalize our heights

Day 84

Drew walked into Maryland with me across the bridge, and I then got some easy miles in along the C&O canal path. Like the Virginia Creeper Trail, you can bike pack the entire path along several days. For me, it was a smooth path where I didn't have to watch my feet so closely.

Table Rock is right behind someone's head

My cutest sighting was a cluster of turtles sunning in the canal.

Hopefully all 7 are visible in the photo for those with an eye for details

The trail in this region starts following a patchwork of smaller state parks and narrow rights of way between them. Gone are the large tracts of national forests, at least until Vermont.

Throwback to the Amicalola arch

There's more road crossings on busier roads, and towns are more frequent. But thru hikers get excited about state parks with trash cans and running water.

Had to fit in this monument because of the castle vibes

Day 85

Mountain laurel is blooming!

Maryland has about 40 miles of the AT with some pretty nice shelters. Today I stopped in at a hiker campground for a proper shower, though I put my sweaty shirt right back on. Yes, trail showers are noteworthy enough for my blog. The trail has been rather quiet for several days, which made it surprising to share a shelter with 6 thru hikers and reconnect with some people I met a week ago.

So flat in the distance

Harpers Ferry is often used as a starting point for flip flop hikes, when you thru hike the whole trail but not in a continuous line. People can start anywhere and flip in any direction, even multiple times, but there's 2 common patterns. Start NOBO in Georgia, flip from Harpers Ferry to Katahdin and hike back south. Or start at Harpers Ferry and hike north, then flip back to the middle and finish going SOBO.

Day 86

I didn't know it yet, but this haze is smoke from the Canadian wildfires

I don't know how to feel about it, but today's scenic overlook at High Rock is famous for the graffiti.

Playing with perspective, all my hiking photos look the same 

The next state park of the day was Pen Mar, right at the border of the same name. Apparently, it was a big destination by train in the 1800s for city folks to see the countryside.

Got to love a sign marking large distances. They're not accurate because the trail is constantly changing

And finally, the big line.

It was actually right next to a railroad

And with that, I will conclude this little chapter.

Happy hiking!