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Showing posts from April, 2023

Erwin to Damascus

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This might be my favorite section so far Day 36 Erwin had a surprisingly well stocked grocery store, though being a small town in the South almost everything was closed on a Sunday save for fast food. I ate a tub of hummus and pound of baby carrots as part of lunch - they had my favorite flavor of Cedar's balsamic caramelized onion hummus. Scenic overlook into town - another section known for whitewater rafting I was cruising along in the afternoon and came to the first shelter 4 miles out. Got sucked into a card game with a nice group I first met a while back, and end up camping together. Day 37 Gnome surprise! Hiked by a nice overlook called Beauty Spot, though I also enjoyed nearby Unaka Mountain. Towards the summit was a pine grove that gave off a distinct forest vibe. There was almost no understory growth, it was fairly dark in the middle of the day, and it was a very soft surface to walk. If you spend all day walking in the woods, yes the trees give of

Great Smoky Mountains, part 2

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Day 24 Took a zero day in Gatlinburg to hang out with my parents. No matter how much everyone called it "touristy," the Southern Vegas-but-no-casino, cheesy boardwalk vibe and crowds were totally overwhelming. At the moonshine store  We ate good food, did a little bit of exploring, and even saw black bears from the back deck of the condo building. They really do embrace the bear as an icon. Live and in person. Not near the dumpster (I've been asked) but there was trash nearby. Day 25 Today my parents slackpacked me, which means I wasn't carrying my full camping gear and just had water and snacks and maybe a spare jacket. My mom joined in for a few miles as well, and my dad met us at road crossings with more snacks and moral support. This is the only section of the park where the AT comes close enough to roads to do this. 200 miles at the Dome! Most hostels offer slackpacking (included if local or for an extra

Davenport Gap to Erwin

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A series of firsts Day 28 Davenport Gap marks the northern boundary of Great Smoky Mountains National Park. At this point, like many hikers I was thinking "good riddance"about the section. The Smokies are discussed as a significant milestone for the AT because it's known for bad weather and is a long stretch of decent terrain with few road crossings. If you've made it that far, your chances of completion are good. In the morning, I made a quick stop at Standing Bear hostel, long enough to charge my phone, buy some snacks, and cook a frozen pizza. It was quite a feat of willpower to leave there back into the rain. Today was the first day I shouted into the void out of frustration. Subsequent days of rain are worse because you start with cold, damp clothing and know that it won't get better. The conditions were worse because in addition to 40 degree Fahrenheit rain, it was windy. Rain gear isn't designed to keep you warm, and warm gear isn't rain proof. You